The morning
came on gently and I watched it drowsily from my hammock. When at
last I eased my limbs from their swaddling and established that my
body was sound, I let my legs take me for a potter around the shore
of my petite isle. The water was warm and the fine sand underfoot
occasionally gave way to cooler black mud that sucked greedily at my
feet. Empty clam shells abounded and I ran my hands through the mud
to see if I could find any live ones that might want to join me for
breakfast.
In an
atavistic frame of mind I wondered at the possibilities of finding
food and water here and dug deeper into the mud, but every shell that
came up was long vacated. On land there was enough marsh samphire for
legions of foodies. But rather than gather bundles and then go
hunting for bird's eggs I returned to the boat where more
conventional fodder awaited.
With the
breezy assuredness of the fully satiated I knocked out the grounds of
my coffee maker on an oar handle—as nonchalantly as I might have
knocked the dottle from my pipe had I been doing this half a dozen
years ago when smoking was still good for you—and languidly mulled
over possible activities for the day. I settled on a plan: I'd follow
the ins and outs of this north shore of La Punta de la Banya,
enjoying the solitude and the wildlife and generally letting my mind
range where it would.
Tidied and
afloat I towed OB through the ankle-deep water to a point where I
could board without grounding her. Like most boats, left to her own
devices Onawind Blue turns side-on to the wind. With the centreboard
and rudder out of the water she happily did 1 knot crabwise in 8
knots of breeze, and in so doing rapidly went back to the shore. I
unshiped the mizzen staysail and hoisted it as a jib, l loosed the
line that holds the rudder blade up so that it might keep some its
surface in the water and lowered the tip of the centreboard. With
this configuration I had some control over the course and rounding
the end of the island I turned downwind and the water deepened to
half a metre.
The shore,
for all its lack of human presence, was littered with civilization's
detritus; plastic bottles and bags, ropes, crates, cans, joists,
beams and a forlorn overturned boat. The fluctuating depth meant I
was constantly adjusting the centreboard and at times the weed grew
so thick that I could hear it tickling OB's belly and she'd slow from
2 to 1 knot obviously enjoying the sensation. Here even the fish
seemed to run aground, occasionally a series of splashes would mark a
fish leaping, salmon style, off a sand bank. We passed egrets, stilts
and herons. I watched the herons land, rather overawed by their
grace. The egret, similar in form though smaller, would seem the more
elegant bird being blazing white, but I noticed that it is more
flappy and nervy when landing, handing the prize for poise to the
heron. I eventually let OB ground on another small island and I set
off footslogging through warm mud to see another group of birds, this
lot were large and pink and balanced on one leg.
A stilt |
Having taken
my souvenir photo of flamingos I returned to the boat for lunch
noticing that the wind had risen significantly out on the water. As I
ate a sailboat luffed abruptly and tipped hard onto its side before
rounding up with sails flogging. Other motor boats were making straight
wakes for Sant Carles and everything indicated that sailing back in
OB might be fast and wet. I munched on my lunch disinclined to
dispell the mellowness of the morning with swift sailing. But I
an idea occurred to me which, if it worked, would mean I could sail
back with very little stress.
I double
reefed the mizzen sail and hoisted it, I rolled the main tightly
round its boom and yard and lashed the bundle to the side deck, then
I hoisted the staysail again as a jib, lowered a tad of centre board
and set off, across the wind towards Sant Carles. Even under this
improvised set up of jib and mizzen, probably no more than two
square metres of sail cloth, OB sailed at three knots. The chop
stayed in its place, rather than coming rowdily aboard as it would
have done under reefed main and mizzen. Sailing in this gentlemanly
fashion I was able to hold on to the deep peace that had settled over
me during the morning.
Until I
reached the boat ramp.
6 comments:
Gday, no tales of the Russian starving masses lol just a quicky. What is marsh samphire and is it in fact eaten.
That grassy looking stuff in front of the flamingos is marsh samphire. The growing tips are tender and when lightly boiled have a pleasant salty flavour; warm lettuce hearts with maldon.
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