There's
a great project underway here on the Catalan coast. It all started
when a group of boating enthusiasts decided to build a boat together.
They chose Gavin Atkin's Ella skiff for the obvious reasons of simple
construction, free plans and good pedigree. The build took a year and
the boat was launched on the Costa Brava at the beginning of the
summer. After sea trails with a polytarp standing lugsail the boat was towed down to the south of Catalonia and the next stage of the
project began. Whosoever, with boat-handling skills,
was invited to sail the boat, in short legs, back up to the Costa
Brava.
When Ella arrived just north of Tarragona I signed up to sail a leg, hoping to get the boat as far north as my home beach at
Creixell. Being 10 kilos underweight and receiving potent treatment
for a dastardly lymphoma I needed some crew and was flattered when my
16 year-old daughter, Yoeh volunteered. She doesn't have much
sailing experience but I could rely on her ability to follow
instructions, her common sense and excellent company. Now I needed
both health and weather windows to overlap. Happily I didn't have to
wait long.
The
forecast showed 6 knots from a favourable quarter between 1400 and
1800 and I had woken with good levels of vim and vitality. But my
main concern was that the wind would fail once we were at sea. The
skiff is equipped with no auxiliary power beyond a pair of kiddy's
paddles, which to me aren't really a viable means of traveling more
than a few hundred metres, if that.
With
the idea of hugging the coast like babes to a mother's breast Yoeh and I set
up the boat on the beach. The skiff is equipped with the basics and well
organised. One significant modification has been made to the design.
With the idea that the boat might be left unattended on faraway
beaches for untold days, openings have been made in the transom and
interior bulkheads to allow the spars to be stored inside the boat.
This would appear sound practice for the projected use of the Ella
Skiff, though I'm always slightly wary of considerations that make
life on land easier as they generally have some consequence at sea.
In this case I worry that eventually the threads of the plastic lids
that cover the holes will wear, leak and compromise the built-in
buoyancy. Provision has been made for this however, and the manual
that comes with the boat exhorts all users to line the threads with
tubing before removing the spars and to exercise extreme care.
Ella
is quite heavily built, revealing the builders' origins in lateen
sail. In Catalan trad-boaty-speak mast is 'arbre'—literally 'tree',
and the solid, sturdy pole up which I hoisted the sail could easily
carry twice as much canvas. We rolled the boat to the
water's edge on the fender that I'd brought for the purpose (and to
serve as a seat once afloat) and waded out until we found enough
depth to ship the rudder and daggerboard. We boarded, sheeted in, put
the tiller to windward and away Ella flew.
The
boat had caused some interest on the beach and I turned to wave to a
small send-off party then re-trimed the sail to go broad and tootle
along just 200 metres off the shore. 'Wow, she's fast.' said Yoeh,
and yes, Ella was already well into her stride as we were still
sorting out our seating arrangements. I sat on my fender inside the
cockpit, wedging my torso into the after starboard corner with the
tiller under my armpit and Yoeh sat on the windward side of the
central thwart looking forward. Ella and her crew were comfortable
all we could wish was that the wind hold.
The
GPS registered a healthy 3 knots and after sailing a mile or so Yoeh
cut up a baguette for sandwiches, complaining that I could have
bought ready-sliced cheese. 'Pre-sliced, industrial packed cheese is
not for those who go to sea in small home-built boats,' I retorted
snobbishly, 'Now use the boat knife to cut that nice, sweaty wedge of
Emmental.'
As
the sandwiches went down the wind came up and white caps began to
appear. The breeze settled at a solid 10 knots, causing us no great
problem but raising our speed a knot. At this rate home was going to
turn up far too early in the day and so we changed course to practice
other points of sail.
The
boat had already shown herself to be well balanced, with a light
tiller and a touch of weather helm but I was impressed at how high
she pointed to windward. She was wet though, with the moderate breeze
and chop and would have liked a reef. I tacked carefully and she came
round well. I repeated the maneouvre with less finesse and got caught
in stays, I backed the sail, put the tiller to leeward and reversed
on to course. Sailing dead down wind with the daggerboard raised Ella
became unstable and ached to gybe but by lowering the board a tad and
turning slightly to windward she regained posture.
Ella
was not designed for these open sea conditions but like Onawind Blue
she behaved well with the decent breeze and short sea and frankly I
wouldn't have expected less.
I'd
added a 2 kilo anchor to Ella's kit—I just don't feel happy going
to sea without one—and thought about stopping for a swim but the bays
under our lee looked too crowded and lumpy and so we pushed on past
OB's old haunts, Waikiki beach, La Mora, Tamarit Castle. We let
everything fly briefly as we peered down at jelly fish and then I
passed the helm to Yoeh and settled myself up forward facing aft.
Yoeh turned Ella off the breeze, trimming the main and we were
galloping again. The wind had risen but on this point of sail Ella
was still comfortable. I worried slightly for the straining polytarp
but knew that the spars could handle a gale.
'There's
a big lump of plastic up ahead.' Said Yoeh. After little more than an
hour aboard she was sounding like a wooden boat owner. 'It's coming
straight towards us.' 'Don't worry, hold your course.' I said, 'we
have right of way.' But she was uncomfortable and started to head up.
'Hold your course!' I repeated.
'But
it's going to hit us.' She said with a rising tone. I thought it
might be time to look round and check out the situation. For a minute
It did indeed appear we were on a collision course but then a gap
widened. The boat made no hint of modifying its course and throbbed
by to port with its fenders out, girls sunbathing on the foredeck and
suntanned swankpots yakking on the fly bridge. I've always exercised
extreme tolerance with this breed of water-user but now, for the sake
of my daughter's education I let fly in full colour. Satisfied with my
imaginative combinations of expletives I sat back to enjoy the wind
in my mustache but was nearly knocked off my perch by the arrival of
motorboat wake.
The
wind remained firm and windsurfers skittered out from the beach at
Torredembarra. Back at the helm I still felt no need to reef. The
waves had grown and Ella hinted that she'd like to try surfing. I was
happy to indulge her, bearing up ever so slightly at the base of the
wave for maximum speed then turning stern to the swell, urging the
crew to get her weight forward. As the skiff caught the wave we lent
back and Ella zipped along with spray singing from her shoulders.
(The GPS marked a max speed for the trip of 9.1 knots ) We whooped
with joy and caught a few more waves before Creixell beach turned up.
It was impossible to de-power the sail on this point of sail and we
howled towards the shore, raising the daggerboard and rudder at the
last minute and skidding a metre up the beach like jerks on a jet
ski.
2 comments:
Thank you for your blog Ben, I can't tell you what an encouragement it is to this lymphoma jockey to read about your exploits. I'm a little envious of your warm waters - I've got the Scottish Moray Firth to 'numb' the treatment! Planning to get out with our dolphins at the weekend!! Take care.
All the best Boatwithnoname. The warm waters are great but the crowds of ignorant stinkpot users are not, and I haven't seen a dolphin since the Ibiza trip. Hang in there, the sea cures.
Ben
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